Arnhem Land island communities, remote and hidden gems

By: Ingrid Sanders

A visit to the small coastal communities in Arnhem Land is somewhat off-the-beaten track. Places like South Goulburn and Elcho Islands are not your regular tourist destinations.

For one, you need a permit, not to mention the fact that and facilities for visitors are limited, there is no accommodation, only one or two shops and an art gallery per island and visitation is restricted to boat or light aircraft travel.

You probably aren’t going to stay a week, but if you make the effort, a stopover is a rewarding experience. Both the Warruwi (South Goulburn) and Galiwin'ku (Elcho) communities are warm, friendly and welcoming.

Elcho, the larger of the two islands with a population of more than 2000, has a thriving art gallery, which sends Aboriginal art all over the world. South Goulburn is much smaller with a population of between 300 and 700 people (depending on who you ask). The local art gallery is in its infancy, however community members are working hard to establish this as a viable local industry.

The scenery of the islands is quite spectacular, dwellings are built atop hills overlooking the beaches and bays. The residents have million-dollar views that anywhere else would be snapped up in a heartbeat by developers. But out here, deep in the heart of Arnhem Land, cost of land is of no consequence, it is simply home.

Arriving at Goulburn Island as the sun is setting, the ochre and sandstone-coloured cliffs that partially line the shore gleam in the afternoon light. Yellow sandy beaches are flanked by a bushy backdrop of eucalypts teeming with sulphur-crested cockatoos.

Meeting members of the local Warruwi Aboriginal community is a real treat. Drawing closer to the beach, a large group of local children cheer and shout, waving with huge smiles on their faces. Warruwi Community CEO Gary Pollett is revving up the kids and their mothers sit on the bank, relaxed and watching.

Aboriginal elder, elected member and local school teacher Jenny Inmulugulli, has lived on Goulburn Island her entire life and speaks eloquently about family life, culture and education on the island.

She says there are more than 100 children at the local primary school which will soon provide secondary schooling, a positive result after years of lobbying. “This is wonderful news for us,” she says. “The children will be able to stay at Goulburn right up to Year 12 so they no longer need to go to the city (Darwin) to finish their schooling.”

The problem of losing the young inspirational minds of the Goulburn community is still strong, however Jenny says many choose an education over life on the island. Although many leave the island to study at university, some are now returning to work in the community in positions such as school teachers.

Jenny says school curriculum on the island is the same as on the mainland, but the community is mindful of retaining the indigenous culture and traditions and children are taught the fine arts of mudcrabbing, baiting hooks and spear fishing.

The population of South Goulburn Island varies, but the community is growing. It is peaceful and prosperous and Jenny says many people from surrounding communities visit Goulburn for extended periods, and some who have left the island are now coming back.

By comparison, Elcho Island which is part of the Wessel Island group in east Arnhem Land, is home to the Galiwin'ku community, the largest in the region.

Aboriginal art is big on Elcho Island. Local artists produce intricate and colourful baskets, paintings, wood carvings and weavings, all available for purchase at the gallery that is located on a cliff top (the eagle’s nest in Yolngu mythology) south east of the town centre. The gallery has spectacular views looking south west over Mission Beach, Abbott Island and the surrounding sea.

Art is not the only export from Elcho. The local dance group – Ratipa Dancers – has made its mark on the world and travelled extensively through Australia, Japan and the United States. Their performance is extremely spiritual with members painting their bodies to represent the spirit of the Dhuwa/Yirritja moieties. A visit to some of Arnhem Land’s island communities is a truly amazing experience.