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Historic Darwin

Ask a room full of people what first springs to mind about Darwin’s history and it’s likely most will answer Cyclone Tracy. While this was Australia’s most significant natural disaster, not everyone is aware of the role Darwin played in World War II, or the other aspects of its rich heritage. There are plenty of historical sites in and around Darwin to explore.

Lyons Cottage, overlooking Darwin Harbour on the Esplanade, was built in 1925 to house staff working on the submarine cable that connected Australia with Britain. Also known as British Australia Telegraph (BAT) House, Lyons Cottage was constructed of locally quarried porcelanite stone and is a good example of early Darwin architecture, with echoes of the distinctive style of British colonial dwellings in India, Malaysia and Singapore.

Lyons Cottage survived the Japanese bombing raids of 1942 and 1943, and escaped structural damage from Cyclone Tracy in 1974. The Cottage today houses a collection of Aboriginal and European photographic displays, providing visitors with an insight into Darwin’s history.

From 1883, the Fannie Bay Gaol operated as Darwin’s major prison for almost 100 years. In stark contrast to the calm blue waters of Darwin Harbour that stretch before the gaol, the building depicts a grim and oppressive history, which can almost be felt as you walk through the cell blocks, infirmary, watch tower, and the 'native section' for Aboriginal prisoners. Two maximum security wings were added during the 1950s and the gallows were used for executions in the Territory until 1952. The gaol has recently been restored and is open daily.

Berry Springs Nature Park is chiefly known as a popular spot for a barbecue or picnic and swim in the natural freshwater pools, 45 minutes from Darwin. But the Park also played a pivotal role in Darwin’s history. During World War II, Berry Springs was part of a rest and recreation camp set up by the armed forces for the 100,000 personnel based in the area. A number of huts and weirs were built during that time and the remains are still visible around the main pool. The interpretive centre gives an overview of the area’s history and displays some historical photos.

Today, the Darwin Wharf Precinct is famous for serving plate after plate of fish and chips as the sun sets over the harbour. The complex also houses a pearling exhibition, pearl shop and an indoor reef system. But the Wharf also has a tragic history. At 9.58am on February 19, 1942 - the wharf was a target for Japanese bombs, which claimed the lives of many service personnel and waterside workers.

Many of the historical landmarks remain and can be explored today. Travellers’ walk, the steam pump house, the little-known civil aviation terminal and Stokes Hill Power Station all have their own stories to tell. ‘Sandfly’, the historic steam locomotive that arrived by ship in Darwin in 1886 and worked until it was decommissioned in 1950, also rests here.

The St Mary's Star of the Sea Cathedral was opened in 1962 and is the centre of the Church’s activity in the Diocese of Darwin, as well as being a war memorial to servicemen and civilians who lost their lives here during the War. The Cathedral’s foundations also contain some fascinating relics from the Territory’s history: a brick from Port Essington (British settlement attempt on the Cobourg Peninsula in Arnhem Land), a musket ball from Fort Dundas (Tiwi Islands), a relic of The Gap police station from Alice Springs and Aboriginal relics such as a stone axe and knife. Another striking feature of the Cathedral is a large oil painting depicting the Virgin Mary and Child as Australian Aborigines, the work of visiting European artist.

Set in lush tropical gardens, atop a cliff overlooking the sea, the four houses that make up the Myilly Point Heritage Precinct are prime examples of pre-World War II Darwin architecture. The creative talents of the architect B.C.G. Burnett, who was appointed the Australian Government’s Principal Architect in the Northern Territory in 1937, changed the face of Darwin residential architecture. Burnett designed a series of homes that adapted to the climatic conditions of the Top End, utilising lightweight materials and natural ventilation. The buildings have had continuous use as housing from their date of construction and are the best surviving examples of Burnett's work. Burnett House is popular with both visitors and locals who come to the grounds for High Tea on Sunday afternoons from 3.30pm.

Burrowed deep beneath the city is one of the most interesting historical sites in Darwin. The World War II Oil Storage Tunnels were built during World War II due to the vulnerability of standard storage tanks to aerial attacks. This innovative approach to conserve oil was a significant part of Australia’s defence strategy.

Of the eight oil tunnels originally planned, only five were completed, however delays in obtaining suitable materials hampered construction and the failure to properly seal the tunnels from water meant that they were never used for their initial purpose. Two of the tunnels are open to the public and feature a collection of photographs of Darwin during World War II. Guided tours operate daily.

Darwin City itself is full of historical sites. There is a series of historical sites and memorial walks along The Esplanade, several commemorating WWII. The Cenotaph, at the Parliament House end of the Esplanade, is Darwin’s official war memorial.

The Smith Street Mall is Darwin’s central shopping district and contains a number of historical information plaques. As you wander through, read about the settlement of the first Chinese people in Darwin in 1874, the discovery of pearl shell in Darwin Harbour in 1884 and the ‘great hurricane’ that struck in 1897. The Star Village is an interesting section of the Mall; it was built just before WWII as one of Darwin’s early cinemas.

Brown’s Mart is a stone building that was opened in 1885 as the store ‘Solomon’s Emporium’. It played many roles over the years, but today has become a cultural and historic icon of the city that is regularly used for theatre and performances.

Opposite Brown’s Mart is the Old Town Hall Ruins. Built from local porcelanite stone and Cyprus pine, the town hall was opened in 1883. Over the years the building had many uses: library, court house and bank before functioning as a Navy workshop and storage area during the war. Cyclone Tracy almost destroyed the building in 1974, but the remains are being preserved. Today, the Ruins are used for theatrical and community events and are also a popular historical attraction.